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These standards were co-authored by the Alaskan Klee Kai Association of America Board of Directors and approved by the United Kennel Club. The Alaskan Klee Kai were accepted into the UKC with full privileges on January 01, 1997. Northern Breed Group
The Alaskan Klee Kai was developed in Alaska by Linda Spurlin
and her family to be a companion-sized version of the Alaskan
Husky. From the early 70’s through 1988, the Spurlins carefully
selected dogs who met their high standards for appearance and
soundness. In 1988, they made the Alaskan Klee Kai available to others.
Mrs. Spurlin originally called her new breed the "Klee Kai," but in
1995 it was changed to "Alaskan Klee Kai." The Alaskan Klee Kai is
still extremely rare.
The Alaskan Klee Kai is a small version of the Alaskan Husky, with a wedge-shaped head featuring a striking masked face, prick ears, and a double coat. The length of body is just slightly longer than the height. The tail is well-furred and curls over the back or to either side when the dog is alert or moving. The appearance of the Alaskan Klee Kai reflects the breed’s Northern heritage.
The most distinctive characteristic of the Alaskan Klee Kai is the facial mask, which must be clearly visible due to contrasting colors. The full face mask is the most desirable. The Alaskan Klee Kai is very curious, active, quick and agile. His loyalty and alertness make the Alaskan Klee Kai an excellent watchdog, who may be territorial despite his small size. While affectionate with family members, the Alaskan Klee Kai is reserved and cautious with strangers and in unfamiliar situations.
The head is clean, free of wrinkles, proportionate to the
size of the body, with a moderate stop. When viewed from the top or
side, the skull and muzzle taper toward the nose to form a broad-based
wedge shape. Faults:
Narrow head; insufficient stop; stop too steep.
SKULL - The skull is slightly
rounded and somewhat broad, tapering
gradually from the widest point to the eyes.
Faults:
Skull too flat or too domed.
MUZZLE - The length of the muzzle
from stop to nose is equal to or
slightly shorter than the length of the skull from occiput to stop.
When viewed from the side or from above, the muzzle tapers slightly
from where it joins the skull to the nose. The muzzle is well-filled-in
under the eyes. The lower jaw is strong but not protruding. Lips are
tightly closed and black, except that liver-colored lips are acceptable
in dogs whose coat colors are shades of red with white.
Faults:
Loosely hanging lips; a shallow or receding lower jaw; a pinched or
snipey muzzle; a too short or too long muzzle.
TEETH - Teeth close in a scissors bite. Fault:
Level bite.
Disqualifications:
Overshot or undershot bite, wry mouth.
NOSE
- A solid black nose is preferred, although the pink-streaked
"snow nose" is acceptable. A liver-colored nose is acceptable in dogs
whose coat colors are shades of red with white. In profile, the nose is
on the same line as the top of the muzzle and extends just slightly
beyond the lower jaw.
EYES - The eyes are of medium size and may be any color or combination of colors. Almond-shaped eyes are the most desirable, followed in order of preference by oval and round. The eyes are set obliquely. Eye rims are black except that liver eye rims are acceptable in dogs whose coat colors are shades of red with white. Faults:
Bulging eyes; eyes set too wide or too close together.
EARS - The ears are prick, strongly erect and pointed upward, well-furred, triangular in shape, and slightly large in proportion to the size of the head. The leather is thick from base to tip. The ears are set so that the inner edge of each ear is above the inner half of the eye below it. Ear tips are slightly rounded. The ears are extremely mobile and react sensitively to sounds. Fault:
Ears set too low.
Disqualification: Hanging or drop ears.
The neck is medium in length,
arched, and carried proudly erect when the dog is standing. When moving
at a trot, the neck is extended so that the head is carried slightly
forward. Faults:
Neck too short and thick; neck too long
The shoulders are moderately laid back. The scapula and the
upper arm form an angle of about 110 degrees. The shoulder blade and
the upper arm are roughly equal in length. FORELEGS
- Viewed from the front, the forelegs are straight, parallel,
and spaced moderately apart, with moderate to fine bone in proportion
to the size of the dog. Pasterns are flexible and strong, moderately
short, and slightly sloping. Elbows are neither close to the body nor
out but are set on a plane parallel to the body.
Faults:
Straight shoulders; weak pasterns; short upper arm
In profile, the length of the
body, from the point of the shoulder to the rear of the buttocks, is
slightly longer than the height of the body from the withers to the
ground. The withers are just slightly higher than the croup. The
topline of the back is level from just behind the withers to the loin,
which is slightly arched. The croup is broad and very slightly
sloping The ribs are well sprung out from the spine, forming a
strong back, then curving down and inward to form a body that would be
nearly heart-shaped if viewed in cross-section. The loin is strong and
short but narrower than the rib cage and with a slight tuck-up. The
chest is moderately broad and let down to the elbows. When viewed from
the side, the lowest point of the chest is immediately behind the
foreleg. The forechest should extend in a shallow oval shape in front
of the forelegs but the sternum should not be excessively pointed. Faults:
Chest too broad; barrel or flat ribs; slack or roached back.
Viewed from the rear, the rear
pasterns are parallel to each other, and spaced moderately apart. The
rear legs are moderately well angulated at stifle and hock joints. The
rear pasterns are well let down and perpendicular to the ground when
viewed from any angle. Faults:
Over angulation; hocks turned in or out; thin or weak thighs.
The feet are sized in proportion
to the bone of the individual dog, oval in shape, and well-knuckled up.
The pads are thickly cushioned and well furred between the toes and
pads. Hair on the feet may be trimmed between the pads and around the
outer edges of the feet. All dewclaws should be removed. Faults: Splay feet; long feet; poorly cushioned
pads.
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